a gun for werewolf.

Answering my own question about original werewolf movies or novels, I’ll name Whitley Strieber’s Wolfen, which was a pretty good and inventive novel, and a tolerable horror film (even if the film diverged from the source material quite substantially.)

For those who asked or commented…yes, I’m toying with the idea of a novel in the genre.  I’ve had a good idea for a story hook, and when I finally sit down to start writing it, I think it’ll be an original take on the subject.  That’s a little while in the future, though…first on my list is the follow-up to the MilSF novel, and then I’ll decide which of the half dozen novel ideas percolating in my noggin gets the next slot on the production schedule.

Someone mentioned the  TV show “Werewolf” from the late 1980s/early 1990s, and I do remember that one.  It had a werewolf hunter as the antagonist, tracking our Good, Misunderstood Werewolf through an entire season.  I don’t have anything like that in mind, but I was discussing the subject with someone via IM the other day, and the talk naturally drifted toward the technical side of a Werewolf Hunter job, specifically the firearms used for such a hazardous occupation. 

(Warning: gun nerd content follows. Proceed at your own risk.)

What kind of armament would be a prudent choice for someone who hunts lycanthropes? 

I think our intrepid werewolf hunter would want to pretty much carry the same sort of boomstick used by people who hunt non-supernatural dangerous game–lions and tigers and such.  He’d opt for a double rifle with express sights, in a caliber sufficient to flip a lion nose over ass.  Make it a .416 Rigby at minimum, and preferably a .600 Nitro Express.  If he wanted more than two rounds, a Marlin guide gun in .45-70 with brisk loads would probably do the job as well.

For a backup sidearm, he’d want a revolver in a “grizzly repellent” kind of caliber–a .44 Magnum at minimum.  No self-loaders, of course–the nature of the quarry means reliability and power are much more desirable than high capacity and fast reloading speed.

That only leaves the problem of explaining the silver bullets to any cops or game wardens he may encounter on his nighttime adventures without looking like a total nutcase.  Getting stopped with an elephant rifle loaded with silver bullets in the middle of the night out in the ‘burbs may require some advanced persuasion skills.  (That would, however, make for some interesting dramatic complications in the story.)

So, which long gun/sidearm combination would you take along if you had to hunt a werewolf? 

Assume your quarry places on the  Dangerous Game scale somewhere between a cranky tiger with a toothache, and a grizzly bear supercharged on PCP.  You’ll probably not get any clean 300-yard shots, but very fast and decisive encounters at very close range, in the dark.

(Try to limit yourself to stuff you can realistically acquire from your local gun shop without Magic Paperwork, and legally carry around without attracting undue attention from your local SWAT team.  That means no belt-fed stuff, no submachine guns, and no .50-caliber Barrett rifles.)

Let your gun geek off the leash, and post your choice in the Comments, if you dare. 

86 thoughts on “a gun for werewolf.

  1. El Capitan says:

    8-shot pump shotgun, with a silver buck & ball mix. Perhaps a pair of cut-down Browning Auto-5’s.

    Would a silver/mercury amalgam work against a lycanthrope? The density would be better than pure silver, anyway.

    A couple of howdah pistols on a MOLLE rig, and a pair of .44 Mag Redhawks for those up-close intimate moments.

    I don’t think you’ll have much luck with a rifle. By all accounts, were-critters move too quick for a precise aimed shot. You’d best be prepared for firing when you see the yellow of his eyes.

  2. williamthecoroner says:

    A double-barreled eight-gauge shotgun. Loaded with (silver) buck and ball. Sidearm? A S&W .44 mag with big bullets and as much powder as you can pack in to them.

  3. Justin Buist says:

    Probably an 870 in some configuration or another.

  4. Regolith says:

    He’d opt for a double rifle with express sights, in a caliber sufficient to flip a lion nose over ass. Make it a .416 Rigby at minimum, and preferably a .600 Nitro Express.

    I’m not so sure about that, actually. In African hunting, the double is used because it provides a quick follow-up shot, and because the guide is there to back up the hunter. If you miss with two shots, the guide can usually join the fray. Also, generally, African dangerous game isn’t all that subtle – they usually just charge straight in, which makes shooting the target easier.

    This won’t be the case with werewolves. Since they’re half human, they will employ more tactics, making missing easier and hence, a larger magazine more preferable. There may or may not be backup available, depending if you want your werewolf hunter to be a loner or part of a team.

    Hunting werewolves would be a lot like hunting a very large, pissed off and fast human. The one good thing is that werewolves don’t use guns, so you don’t have to worry about that, but you still need to put them down before they get within range.

    The Marlin Guide Gun is ok with its four rounds, but I think a werwolf hunter would want more than that. I’m thinking he’d be using a semi-auto shotgun of some sort, perhaps with a detachable magazine like a Saiga 12 or a AA-12, loaded with cast silver slugs. A battle rifle like an M1a or a FN FAL might also be a consideration, but they lack the stopping power of a 12 gauge slug. Basically, you’re going to need something that can deal with a very fast, large, agile and intelligent predator, and for that you’re going to need a way to put lots of lead – or in this case, silver – on target.

    • perlhaqr says:

      The one good thing is that werewolves don’t use guns

      Though that would be a new twist on the “Werewolf story”…

      Yeah, I’m thinking FAL or AK. Leaning more towards AK due to reliability, and the fact that you’re probably not engaging at super long range.

      One thing all the shotgun enthusiasts are (possibly) not thinking of, the cost per round. An ounce of silver is 14 bucks. You get quite a few more rifle rounds than shotgun rounds out of that ounce.

  5. mac says:

    You might want to read this article on the difficulties casting/using silver bullets. http://www.hurog.com/books/silver/silverbullets.shtml

    Not as easy as it sounds. And the ballistics would be completely different.

  6. Regolith says:

    I wonder how much lead is actually needed. If ANY silver taken internally is deadly, then all you would need to do is sheath a lead bullet with a silver jacket, or perhaps layer it, with a silver layer being sandwiched between a copper jacket and a lead core.

  7. Regolith says:

    *that should read how much *silver* is actually needed.

  8. SigBoy40 says:

    I know it may sound silly, or even Mack Bolan-ish(shudder), but what about a pair, or even one, Desert Eagle in 50 ae? Power, reliability, and an auto, all rolled into one. As for a long gun, maybe one of the new Ruger Hawkeyes in 375 or 416 Ruger? With safari sights of course, maybe a 4x fixed power scope on QD rings?

    I will put my inner geek away now.

  9. Gregg says:

    I like the Saiga 12 idea. However, I would probably go for an AR-15 in .50 Beowulf with a Desert Eagle in .44 magnum as my primary pistol and a 2″ S&W 629 (.44mag) as a backup. Admittedly I have not checked the ballistic differences between .44mag and .50 AE. If there is a significant difference I would go with the .50 AE.

  10. Marko says:

    I’d probably stick with non-automatic loading systems…revolvers, lever guns, pump-actions, side-by-sides. I’d be too worried about a failure to feed/cycle at a most inopportune moment.

    • Gregg says:

      A) As Tam Herself is fond of saying “anything mechanical can and will fail at the most inopportune time” (ok, I may be paraphrasing).

      B) I have drilled extensively on clearing malfs and/or transitioning to a secondary weapon. This has been done primarily with the AR-15 family and semi-auto handguns.

      Obviously it all comes down to what weapon systems each individual is trained and experienced in. Heck, I know many people who can not comfortably fire a desert eagle, those buggers are big and heavy.

      I wouldn’t be comfortable with a lever gun and a revolver. I just can not reload fast enough to handle a pack if necessary, and I doubt that a locked up wheelgun would be effective at all against a lycanthrope. At least with the semi-auto weapons one can typically clear a malfunction in a reasonable amount of time. In other words, while they may have more malfunctions, at least their malfunctions are not as likely to result in an inoperative firearm.

  11. MarkHB says:

    What’s wrong with a crossbow? The modern composite crossies are GLOCK STEALH RADAR TRAPSNARINT and shtuff. (sic)

    From a strict mechanical point of view, your trigger merely releasing a string removes – what? – three mechanical and chemical points of failure from the proceedings?

  12. Jay G. says:

    Marlin 1894 in .44 Magnum. Companion arm would be a Ruger Redhawk with a 4″ barrel.

    Both can use heavy, cast bullets; both will function reliably under the worst possibly conditions; the Guide gun is good out to 150 – 200 yards. Ruger should be good for monster 300+ grain bullets, too…

  13. I WOULD TAKE A 12 GUAGE W/ BUCKSHOT AUTO 5 ROUNDS…..

  14. Vaarok says:

    Drilling. Gotta be a drilling.

    • Marko says:

      Ooh…I like. Two barrels of buck-n-ball, one barrel of longer-range medicine, like a 9.3x74R.

  15. T.Stahl says:

    IIRC, silver shrinks a bit more than lead when it solidifies. Wouldn’t matter in buck shot, so I’ll opt for a pump-action. Make and model depending on the character: young guy – Nova, old guy – 870 or similar. But why a guy? …
    As to the handgun, well, .44Mag, it’s the only way to be sure.

  16. georgeh says:

    Something large bore with low velocity to allow quick recovery for a second shot. 45/70 or 50/70 would be in the range. Paper patched pure silver bullets of course. A shotgun with silver slugs would be great. African game guns have too much recoil and werewolfs just aren’t that solid.

    I have a hammer double rifle in 500 black powder express (an almost identical load to the Sharps “Big 50) that would suit me fine. Paper patched 500gr silver slugs at about 1750fps.

  17. T.Stahl says:

    Or this shotgun from South Africa, the Neostead, short enough to fit under a long coat.

  18. Assrot says:

    I like a good Werewolf story. I have an excellent suggestion for a “Werewolf Gun”.

    http://assrot.blogspot.com/search?q=beowulf

    You’ll have to make your own silver bullets. That should be easy enough with a good RCBS Rock Chucker Supreme.

    Joe

  19. Sevesteen says:

    I’d need to know the mechanism for silver’s effectiveness to make a final choice. Does the silver act as a poison, or does it merely interfere with the were’s ability to heal? Does the total amount make a difference, is surface area more important, or is any silver bullet fatal regardless of shot placement?

    If any penetration by a silver bullet is fatal, I’d go with an FN five-seven, with the FN-2000 in reserve.

    If the mechanism is poison, and that surface area of silver was more important than either total dose or penetration, choices would be different. For a long gun, I’d go with a shotgun, but with a much smaller shot size than ordinary for defense. I’d start with a Taurus Judge for a sidearm, but I would try to come up with a silver-based frangible or Glaser-type to use in standard guns. I’d likely go with a high-cap .45.

    If silver merely interferes with were-healing, I’d go with fairly conventional arms, with silver or silver-plated ammo.

  20. TXGunGeek says:

    No need to go shopping, use what’s in the safe, pre’64 Win model 70 in .375H&H and Colt Anaconda .44Mag with a few speed loaders. Both loaded with personal hand loads.

    • misbeHaven says:

      Both of which came from Dad. I wonder if he knows more about werewolves than he’s letting on…?😉

  21. David says:

    Werewolf hunting!

    Longarm? .50 Beowulf AR-15, 18″. Sidearm? 12ga Serbu Super Shorty loaded with silver birdshot. Giddy at the mere thought of concealing silver birdshot IWB with an iddy biddy shotgun. For emergencies, a Derringer on the ankle.

    That gives you good coverage everywhere from 250 yards, up to your face.

  22. wolfwalker says:

    He’d opt for a double rifle with express sights, in a caliber sufficient to flip a lion nose over ass. Make it a .416 Rigby at minimum, and preferably a .600 Nitro Express. If he wanted more than two rounds, a Marlin guide gun in .45-70 with brisk loads would probably do the job as well.

    Erm … have you ever done any African big-game hunting, or talked to anybody who did? I haven’t done either one, but I can at least lay claim to having read an account by one of the better African hunter-guides, one Alexander Lake. His thesis was that bullet caliber or velocity didn’t matter nearly so much as bullet placement did. Lake himself preferred to carry a .303 Lee Enfield. The great hunter W.D.M. Bell typically carried a .275 or .256 rifle, and killed a lot of game of all sizes with it, up to and including elephant.

    A gun for werewolf? I think I’d favor a shotgun loaded with silver or silver-coated buckshot. And as long as we’re in the realm of fantasy, have your backup sidearm be a replica Le Mat ‘Grapeshot Revolver:’ nine bullets in the cylinder and a buckshot charge in the center barrel as a last-ditch defense.

    • formerflyer says:

      I have been fortunate enough to do some big game hunting in Africa. If you’re hunting in a truly wild area then you will see elephants, buffalo and lion up close. I guarantee that the first time you see an Ele in the flesh at 10-30 yards, the last thing that will cross your mind is, “Well, Bell hunted these with a .275.”

      Most of the time Bell hunted with a .275 he was, as is proper, ambushing his prey. Threading a small caliber, high sectional density solid into the brain of a standing Ele is one thing. Stopping a charging Ele or buff before they can turn you into something that looks like cherry-pie-filling, well, that takes something heavy. Bell swapped out his “killing” rifle for a “stopping” rifle any time the rules changed. If you don’t have a very trusted gun-bearer who goes everywhere you go, then you’d better carry your stopping rifle with you. I don’t go ANYWHERE on safari without my .458 Lott, and I make sure my wife always carries her rifle in .375 loaded with solids.

      Just my two cents worth.

  23. formerflyer says:

    Have to agree with everything Regolith says plus I’ll add my two cents. African heavy rifles are built for the purpose of stoping things weighing 1 to 6 TONS. Penetration is king. Also, the game laws in all of sub-Saharan Africa prohibit self loading firearms almost entirely for hunting. These restrictions wouldn’t matter to a lycanthrope hunter.

    When hunting lion, my PH preferred his clients use a .30 or .338 magnum, when hunting leopard he said he preferred clients use cartridges in the ’30-06 class. He carried a 470 nitro, but he put it down and picked up an over and under 12 ga for backup in the leopard blind, and said he far preferred his FN-FAL for backup on lion.

    Assuming there’s conservation of mass when going from human to wolf form, I’m going to suggest sticking to the larger variants of human-capable weapons systems. Think FN-FAL, M1A, AR10, Garand, etc. for the long arm. I’d be inclined to use a .357, .41 or .44 for a revolver, but truthfully I’d be happiest with a Glock 20 loaded with 16 silver-alloy 10mm’s.

    YMMV

  24. Kaerius(SWE) says:

    I’d probably go for a trifecta of:
    Alexander arms .50 beowulf entry model, with an ACOG or similar sight.
    .454 casull revolver, 5″ barrel
    Some form of longsword, handcrafted with a balance point only about an inch above the crossguard. Silver plated.

    For bullets… how about lead or even tungsten core bullets with silver jackets?

  25. Kaerius(SWE) says:

    Or for that matter: amalgam silver/lead core, silver jacket.

  26. Mike says:

    Read a few decent books from the Moon Called series. They were actually not that bad: http://www.epinions.com/review/Moon_Called/content_228369534596

    The main character keeps a Marlin 444 loaded with silver bullets on hand in her trailer for home defense.

    Personally, I’d probably go with a Marlin 1895G, possibly with a second one that has a barrel chopped down to 16″ for when I had to do “urban hunts”, top ’em both off with the Aimpoint Comp M4s – just because it’ll always work.

    For a side-arm, a Smith & Wesson 500.

    I didn’t get around to answering your original question, but the wherewolf premise in Moon Called is interesting… All the other “creatures of magic” have come out into the light where people can simply deal with them… except the wolves and a few others because of the expected backlash. The wolves are total type-A people; the kind you expect in corporate boardrooms and black ops teams, especially the Alphas (they run in packs). In their wolf form, they rated around “grizzly bear supercharged on PCP”.

  27. Dave says:

    I’m working on a “bane” theory. If the intent is to deliver the most bane (silver, in this instance) then you want the heaviest bullet weight you can get. My call is .45 ACP. 230 grains, low velocity, easy to suppress for your suburban hunting forays because it’s already subsonic.

    If we are assuming that the speed of werewolves means you are taking no long shots and these are all close encounters of the worst kind, .45 works. Penetration through brush won’t be an issue beyond close range, and pistol/subgun setups are available with compatible magazines. Since wolves hunt in packs (werewolves may vary by the mythology you write) ammunition and magazine compatibility can be a factor.

    Bottom line: if the mags are compatible (not sure on this one, since we suck and HK hates us), UMP .45 and USP .45. If mag compatibility can be sacrificed, then AR that takes grease gun mags (check Bazooka Brothers) and a 1911 or Glock 21.

  28. “…a caliber sufficient to flip a lion nose over ass.”

    unpossible, of course, with anything your intrepid werewolf stalker could comfortably carry.

    bad westerns and teevee shootemups notwithstanding, an ounce or three of lead (or silver) just can’t physically move a three hundred pound mammal, no matter how fast it travels or how it blossoms on impact.

    now, remove restrictions on stationary mounts and triple-digit millimeters, and all bets are off.

    jtc

    • Marko says:

      A 152mm howitzer in direct fire mode at point-blank range would probably even eliminate the need for silver, I think.

  29. Bob says:

    What firearm depends on the time period. In the 19th century, a buck & ball side by side or over under shot gun. However I to like the idea of a drilling. Judging by the Alfa catalog one could acquire a 4 barrel shotgun/ drilling might be the ticket. For handguns, a pair of over under Howda percussion pistols.
    That said in the early 20th century BAR with the barrel sawed off and the stock cut down, ala Bonnie & Clyde would make a mean weapon close in and far out. Browning A5 automatic shotgun works too. Handgun a DA Revolver or 1911 auto in .45.
    In later the 20th century times with our gun laws, an auto shotgun (870) with an 18” barrel and extended magazine. Of course the Benelli M4 Super90 would be really cool. For a handgun, a S&W or Ruger large caliber revolver, or Desert Eagle Automatic would be a good choice.
    Whatever your choice it all depends on your ammo, and that’s an interesting proposition. How much silver is needed? Hmmm. Bet it’s a bunch. If the silver act like lead on people you’d need a bunch. For modern times I’d use Art Clay in Sterling Silver (8 to 9% shrinkage) over sized molds etc. Silver shot can be purchased commercially. Earlier times I’d have a Silversmith as a close associate/partner or be a journeyman silversmith yourself.
    And let’s not forget those knives, swards, and pole arms.

  30. […] In one day E.B> Misfit wonders what it would take to make an anti-vampire round. and Marko wants to know what kind of gun would be best for hunting werewolves. […]

  31. J.R. Shirley says:

    It depends on the size of the werewolves in your mythology. If they are roughly the size of humans, as was said very early on, a good shotgun with slugs is the way to go.

    In general, if you have access to everything, fire is the way to take on unspecified threats and man, too.

    Or silver. Nothing seems to like being shot with silver.

  32. Strings says:

    I’d go with what I have on hand (plus one purchase)…

    44 AMP as standard sidearm. Short bbled Judge as secondary sidearm.

    45-70 Sharpes rifle as long gun

  33. OrangeNeckInNY says:

    Don’t forget body armor comprised of a Sterling Silver chainmail suit.

  34. tam says:

    I’m thinking silver slugs might be easier to come by than silver bullets.

    An 870, probably.

    (…and whoever told you that leverguns don’t break was trying to sell you one. Shootin’ Buddy and his friend put four Marlin .357’s toes-up at their last Clint Smith tactical golf vacation…)

  35. Paul says:

    I don’t really think the type of firearm is that important, in my opinion it’s the ammunition that is making the difference.

    Werewolves are vulnerable to silver, as long as the ammunition is silver you have no problem.

    Use whatever firearm fits the character.

  36. pignock says:

    I can’t imagine a modern werewolf story that would interest me. The world has evolved to zombies.

    A werewolf story in victorian times would necessitate victorian era firearms, ie webleys, winchesters, and purdys.

  37. scotaku says:

    The question of guns has led me to wonder about the question of tactics: Why must the werewolf hunter always have Big Iron? Why not cap the lycanthrope in the softer, more nougaty human form? Is there a moral difference? Kill the werewolf, kill the man. Kill the man, kill the werewolf.

    As for me, I prefer the GyroJet loaded in the .50 Niven.

  38. Casey says:

    I would have to say a 12-gauge with a magazine extender, a la:

    http://www.thefirearmblog.com/blog/2009/05/01/rci-xrail-roth-auto-index-loader/

    I’m given to understand that they also make one, albeit with slightly reduced capacity, to go on a pump action shotgun. However, I would think that 26 rounds of Silver shot(pick a size) delivered as fast as you can pull the trigger would be ideal for fast moving, quick-dodging, in-your-face targets, such as a werewolf.

    Anything that makes it through that, I would have to say that any hand gun would be obsolete at that point.

    However, if you’re thinking that you would need to use the handgun to give you time to get to your shotgun, then something semi-automatic, in a peppy cartridge, say 10mm. Jams and malfs are much easier and quicker to clear in a semi-automatic pistol, than in a revolver. Though, I would agree there is less chance of jams or malfs in a revolver, you also have fewer shots. With the speed and agility of your target, percentage of misses is going to go way up, so you’ll want more rounds in hand, and a speedier reload than with a revolver.

    Just my thoughts🙂

    Casey

  39. Al T. says:

    Hmmm. Old school (“Classic”) would be TR’s .405 Winchester, Alvin York’s 1911 and a Winchester M12, preferably carried by some famous “white knight” – maybe one of the Texas Rangers? You’d have the historical tie in and the weapons could be considered “magical”.

    New school (“Modern”) would be a M14 or FAL, Saiga or Benelli 12 ga and a S&W M&P or Glock in .45.

    FWIW, I’m OK with the MBRs as far as reliability goes and the increased capacity takes them way ahead of the lever guns.

    Another thought – these things have to bite you, so they will be closing in on you – I’d like to have a short spear to play Swiss pikemen if the guns went out of action.

  40. John Gall says:

    I agree with letting weapon choice fit the time frame. And if the time frame is relatively modern, most any silver projectile could be disguised by a moly coating . . .

  41. Jason says:

    .458 Socom?

  42. Jay says:

    Assuming that (under our current administration) there won’t be an expansion in the availability of special-use (Ag) ammunition, I’ll go with what I can actually make myself.

    Since I can cast slugs, I’ll use my Benelli M2 loaded with 3″ 12Ga Ag slugs, counting on the sabot performance not to be too much effected by the difference in density. Since making your own shot really isn’t that hard, I’ll add in some nice 000 for when/if things start to get more up-close and personal.

    My friend Dave (who is nuts) has already cast Ag .45LC either for fun or maybe for protection from his new girlfriend, who is either a werewolf or just really….hirsute. Assuming he has some spares left after date night, I’ll load a few in my Judge for hot-breath-range issues.

    It that doesn’t do it, I’ll try to provide better input via seance.

  43. I’m thinking that, while power is good, capacity is going to be more of an issue on such an agile creature.

    For the long gun, I’m liking the idea of an AR (or other modular type) in 7.62 NATO. Perhaps an M1A. I’d love the idea of 20 of those per mag, and I can find .308 at Wally World if need be.

    Backup will certainly be awarded to a hand cannon, but I do find some comfort in the extra round in the Desert Eagle magazine.

    tweaker

  44. aczarnowski says:

    I do love me the Auto5. Having a shortened PD version would make me smile here in the real world. Maybe I should make myself one of those…

    And with that I’ll join the shotgun cheer squad. Though probably with an 870 since they’re easier to field strip and have about six billion more accessories than the Auto5s. Or a 590 Mossy if I didn’t have 20 years of experience with the Remy’s less-than-optimal control layout. Close in the dark with easier home made ammo.

    Sidearm? Depends on the size we’re talking about. If they’re bears then a Super Redhawk in something super redhawky would be my pick. More man sized? A high cap auto in 45ACP.

    Oh, and a sword with a silver edge. It’s fantasy right?

  45. Brass says:

    As a couple of others here have mentioned, I believe Govenor Palin’s new gun would just about be the bee’s knees for this kind of situation. I wonder if she’s got a problem up north there that hasn’t been mentioned?

  46. prophet says:

    If we can assume that werewolves are anything like humans, the silver should be something along the lines of a poison. In a person, a toxic heavy metal like metallic lead is largely harmless unless there is enough surface area for a significant amount to be absorbed by the tissue. Therefore, we can say that it is the surface area of the silver, not the total weight, which will determine the effectiveness on a werewolf. For instance, a round sphere of 1 oz of silver will have much less surface area than several smaller projectiles. The rate of silver absorption will be low enough that even a small fragment will not be likely to completely dissolve for years. Amalgam is to be avoided, as amalgam slows the absorption of metals into the bloodstream – hence dental amalgam is safe to use.

    Second, we can assume that werewolves aren’t completely bulletproof – a bullet must penetrate for a silver bullet to be effective, but a normal bullet doesn’t seem to do much good, so the conclusion is that normal bullets do penetrate, but the body of the werewolf must heal exceptionally quickly.

    In this case, either silver has a localized effect, or it may be a systemic poison, in which an increased concentration of silver in the bloodstream of a werewolf has some deleterious effect.

    If the silver effect is localized, it may either be simply toxic (in which case the wound heals rapidly, but silver remaining in the wound would continue to do some kind of damage), or its only action may be to prevent the rapid healing of the wound track which came into contact with the silver.

    If the silver effect is systemic, it may either act as a simple toxin similar to heavy metal poisoning in humans (which can take years to kill the subject), or an increased concentration of silver in the bloodstream may slow healing throughout the whole body of the wolf. In the latter case, once enough silver has entered the werewolf’s bloodstream, normal lead bullets would become effective.

    I believe the most likely case is a combination of the localized and systemic theories, both acting to slow the exceptional healing rate of the werewolf. In this case, a silver projectile must still cause a lethal wound – the hunter cannot simply shoot a werewolf once and wait for it to die from silver poisoning.

    Even if we assume that conservation of mass may not hold for the werewolf transformation process, werewolves are rarely reported to be more than twice the weight of a normal human, putting it in the weight range of black bear, but leaner.

    In order to be lethal, a bullet must penetrate a tough layer of skin (probably more similar to armor than thick hide usually encountered on dangerous game) and then muscle and bone which is thicker and denser than that of humans, but not much deeper.

    In summary, we need a silver bullet which will penetrate armor-like hide, penetrate several inches of dense flesh and possibly bone, create a large wound channel, and present maximum possible surface area of the bullet’s silver to the flesh as it passes through. The bullet should also remain within the werewolf, so overpenetration should be avoided as well.

    The ideal bullet seems to be a high velocity fragmenting rifle bullet, similar to the effect a 5.56mm 68-77 grain open-tip-match bullet has on human targets. The instability and fragmentation in tissue exhibited by the OTM bullets is due to the length of the bullet and its rearward center of gravity – as the bullet traverses tissue, it is less stable than it is in air. The bullet tries to flip over to travel base-first and move the center of gravity in front of the center of drag, but when the bullet is halfway through this transition it is traveling sideways through the tissue. This presents enough stress to shatter the bullet, which sends small pieces throughout the target, slicing the tissue which was already stretched by the impact and sudden yawing of the bullet. The momentum of the tissue continues tearing the tissue where it was sliced by the fragments. The bullet rarely leaves the target once fragmentation takes place.

    We may wish to step up from 5.56mm to 6.8mm SPC or 6.5mm Grendel in order to ensure adequate penetration against a werewolf larger than a human. In any case, the ideal bullet would be heavy for caliber, very long, with a rearward center of gravity, and barely spin stabilized in air. In order to ensure fragmentation of a silver bullet (which is much stronger and harder than a lead bullet), it may be necessary to pre-fragment the core and seal it in a softer silver alloy jacket with cannelure and scoring. A lead plug in the base may help increase bullet weight and move the center of gravity towards the rear, aiding early yaw. The lead plug could be coated in hardened silver so that when it breaks away, it still adds silver to the wound track.

    For 5.56mm, a 68 grain bullet would be very long, possibly too long to load. A 62 grain bullet would be longer than a 77 grain lead bullet, and require 1:7 twist rate. For 6.8 or 6.5mm a bullet of approximately 110 grains may be ideal, but may require a faster rifling twist than is commonly available.

    An AR15 with a holographic sight is ideal for such work – high capacity, lightweight, quick to aim, quick to reload. Can easily be fitted for a suppressor and various lights, etc.

  47. Kristopher says:

    Bullcrap.

    Semi-autos are old tech these days.

    I would suggest a short .308 semi-auto. Maybe a collapsing stock G-3 variant. Or a shortened .308 Saiga if you want absolute reliability … maybe one of FBMG’s insane creations.

    A drilling may satisfy your gun-geekiness, but I want a real MBR if I am wandering into a fight.

    As for the silver bullets thing, just plate the outside of the rounds with a thin layer of copper ( make ’em hollowpoints so the silver WILL end up on the outside of the round ).

  48. Kristopher says:

    Oh, and .223 is good for weremice … at least go to 6+ mm if doing an AR platform rifle.

  49. Eric Hammer says:

    I was thinking more along the lines of Prophet, in so far as the biology of the werewolf needs to be fully planned out before figuring out how to kill it.
    Questions to ask might be:

    1. Do you intend to have the thing killed in melee at some point? If so, silver needs to work on a weapon, or be a poison such that a few bullets in the thing will slow healing enough for a good thwack with a shovel or something to finish it off.
    2. Is there a supernatural reason that werewolves dislike silver? Does it burn them, like the crosses in Buffy? In that case, putting a powerful bullet through them would be less useful than a small bullet that sticks inside.
    3. Are werewolves natural critters? If werewolves are a “natural” phenomenon (as opposed to “A wizard did it” or “Daemonic Posession”) Prophet’s healing reduction poison has pretty decent versimlitude.

    Basically the big question in terms of weapons (assuming you don’t know all that) seems to be whether silver is the killer, or just the enabler. If Mom’s good silver forks can be rammed into the bugger’s belly for the kill, that means a low power (relatively speaking) gun that just gets through the skin might be enough. If the bullet has to be a special material to make it work like it does on a normal person, than a big gun is needed.

    Personally, not knowing one from the other (as perhaps an amateur hunter or one operating with little scientific back up) I would go with a sawed off 10g. shotgun with 00 buck, and a .44 Magnum revolver (or perhaps my 1911 .45.) I suspect that in any urban environment you will have too much difficulty taking long shots unless one can lure the beast somewhere.

    Somegood research might be done testing the penetration of silver bullets through brick walls. A great sub-plot would be a police detective hunting down our hunter after a stray pellet goes through a wall and into a civilian.

  50. mac says:

    I think the above questions about how silver damages were’s is crucial to choice of armament. In the article I referenced, I noted several things:
    1.) silver doesn’t cast over a campfire, it requires 1600F heat to melt
    2.) solid silver bullets don’t mushroom or deform appreciably upon impact
    3.) .45 Long Colt silver bullets with 40 grains of black powder behind it will punch a hole through quarter-inch steel plate at 50 yards.

    If we’re going for simple shot placement, assuming that silver prevents healing or something, then a solid silver bullet through the heart or head is required. Anything else is just going to piss off the were’. But there you’re talking about sniper style shooting of relatively stationary targets.

    Going to the poison theory of damage, surface area is key. Shot or highly-fragmenting projectiles would be preferred. Liquid, a la “Underworld,” is ideal. Also, the whole projectile wouldn’t have to be silver, just the parts you expect to be exposed to the target, from inside. That is, a bullet that mushrooms well would be coated both on the outside and inside the cavity.

    Considering that were’s are usually fast-moving critters, I think a shotgun is better for poisoning. Backup might even be a Taurus Judge, or this giant, derringer-looking over/under pistol I saw at the range last month. It fired .410 and .45 (Win Mag?).

    Honestly, I figure the sidearm is a final resort. If the were’ gets that close to the hunter, things have gone very, very wrong. The hunter’s only going to get a couple of shots off and hope they work. For the longarm, I’d want as many rounds as possible, so a Saiga or some other autoloader would be preferred.

  51. Eric Hammer says:

    Actually Marko, I would be really interested in seeing your concepts for an urban fantasy werewolf’s biology, and then deciding how to kill it. I always find in books, shows and movies that power creep becomes a serious issue, with the monsters either getting silly powerful and conveniently losing limitations as the main characters get stronger, or the opposite problem of the original monster types becoming trivial encounters and the writers having to come up with ever more omnipotent enemies to cause the Apocalypse. (I am struggling to come up with an example of the former off the top of my head, but Buffy definitely suffered from the latter.)

  52. Aaron says:

    Same thing I’d take if I was hunting a smart, normal human. An AK-47, extra mags and hollow point silver ammo so I wouldn’t have to worry about over penetration and regeneration after the silver left the body.

    Glock in 9mm with a high cap “happy stick” magazine. Both weapons would have tarnished silver inlay (tarnish reduces “shiny” factor, silver inlay makes weapon physically harmful for werewolf to touch).

    Depending on the level that WW’s are allergic to silver in your universe, maybe run some silver threading through one of my clothing layers so that any rending and tearing that goes on hurts my quarry as well.

    But, honestly? You’re hunting a supernatural wolf with some rather interesting traits. I think the best idea would be to silver plate a few boxes roofing nails and use them as the shrapnel for some IED’s. Lure the wolf into a prepared ambush whenever possible. Not quite as sexy as blowing the crap outta Wolfie, but much more likely to lead to me making it to the Old WW Hunter’s retirement home.

  53. Jason says:

    Ooh, silver shot flinging claymores… diabolical!

  54. Shootin' Buddy says:

    As a kid I killed a cord or two of coyotes with a Ruger No. 1 in .220 Swift.

    As to werewolves, is not the lethality mechanism the silver, not the loss of blood? I mean maybe Elmer Keith would shoot werewolves with a .505 Gibbs but given that werewolves travel in packs, I would think a self-loader with partners would be appropriate.

    Maybe one of those Merkel self-loaders? Oh, man, are those sweet. One of the Dutchies from the Rolls Royce facility at the research park let me shoot one. It’s on the list to procure.

    How about any 5.56 carbine with silver bullets. Add a suppressor as werewolves are always hanging out in churches, spooky old building, castles, inter alia, doing whatever it is that werewolves do.

    Shootin’ Buddy

  55. David says:

    “doing whatever it is that werewolves do.”

    Peeing on fire hydrants and licking themselves?

    Heh.

  56. JPG says:

    I don’t know why I’m so impatient with the current fad about ZOMBIE foolishness and many otherwise intelligent-seeming individuals engaging in discussion thereof. On the other hand, though, I’m willing to play along with a WEREWOLF. Wonder if it’s because, ‘way back in my mind, there’s a kernel of suspicion that maybe there could be a combination of psychological disturbance and, uh, blood disorder that could stretch into a (just barely) possibly logical scenario.

    Anyhow, my disdain for zombies notwithstanding, here’s my take on coping with werewolves.
    It might take a certain amount of experimentation, but I think I already have on hand the hardware I’d want to use. Ammunition would take a bit of development. I believe I could make do nicely with my Marlin Guide Gun .45-70 and one (or two) of three different handguns: S&W Mountain Gun in .45 Colt, S&W .45ACP revolver, or a Colt’s Government Model .45 auto.

    I’d need to get a couple of bullet moulds – – one for the short lever gun, nominally 385 to 405 gr size, and another for the handgun, 255 to 300 gr size. I’ve seen sterling silver beads offered in various sizes. I’d want some in, say, 7 or 8 mm size. Drop one into the pre-heated mould and then fill the cavity with a fairly hard lead alloy. The silver bead would not melt at liquid lead temperature. The silver nose should allow the big bullets to feed reliably in the lever action or .45 ACP.

    The composite bullets would shoot nearer normal sight settings than all-silver bullets. The .45-70 cartridges, with, say, 300 gr projectiles would fly flatter than my standard 400-gr. loads, and hits at 150 to 200 yards manageable with ghost ring sights. The handgun loads, with bullets of around 220, should shoot much like normal bullets at close ranges.

    Another benefit of using my familiar firearms is that I already know how to use them. No need to train up to a different manual or arms.

    Coincident with this interesting conjecture, though, my innate logic won’t allow me to avoid certain considerations. I cannot assume some magical return of my youth, endurance, and good health. My combination of life experience, modest skill at arms and really bleak attitude MIGHT enable me to inflict some damage on the adversaries. Then I’d end up in a Red Shirt role.

    Best,
    JPG

    • I’d need to get a couple of bullet moulds – – one for the short lever gun, nominally 385 to 405 gr size, and another for the handgun, 255 to 300 gr size. I’ve seen sterling silver beads offered in various sizes. I’d want some in, say, 7 or 8 mm size. Drop one into the pre-heated mould and then fill the cavity with a fairly hard lead alloy. The silver bead would not melt at liquid lead temperature. The silver nose should allow the big bullets to feed reliably in the lever action or .45 ACP.

      And the bullets would be a heck of a lot cheaper to make than all-silver bullets.

      • prophet says:

        Aren’t most bullet molds base-up? The silver bead would float to the top, ending up somewhere at the base of the bullet.

  57. Brian Dale says:

    I’ll stick with the best advice that I read, over and over: “carry the gun that you shoot the best” (discounting the ones that just aren’t big enough):

    I’d take an 870 and an N-frame Smith.

    perlhaqr wrote:

    “One thing all the shotgun enthusiasts are (possibly) not thinking of, the cost per round. An ounce of silver is 14 bucks. You get quite a few more rifle rounds than shotgun rounds out of that ounce.”

    If I can’t afford good ammo, I won’t be doing that job in the first place. 😉

  58. Shane says:

    What about for non-lethal or coercive use? How about a Super Soaker squirt gun filled with a silver nitrate solution or a Taser or stun gun with silver electrodes? How dog-like are werewolves? Would one of those ultrasonic dog repellers have any effect or pepper spray be of any use?

  59. can’t believe that after 65 comments (c’mon 100!), no other .22 lovers have jumped in to sing its wereweapon praises…

    *************************

    biff (buffy’s brother) the vampire slayer knew what so many had missed in their blind quest for raw power; the scientific consensus that silver in the bloodstream, not collateral damage, is key. and what better way to inject multiple tiny doses that will zigzag around, not only polluting the blood, but also ripping holes in vital wereorgans, than the unassuming .22?

    and silver being near $15 bucks an ounce, his werepoison dollar will go much further when parceled into 1 gram frags necked into zippy little minimags. portability comes into play, too…a couple of 10/22’s, a few mkII’s, and a few thousand doses of werepoison preloaded into enhanced-capacity magazines, are easily carried about, minimizing the risk that the hairy foul-breathed heathens will gang up on him in a fixed location. yes, biff had those werebastards’ number, and that number was .22…

    ******************************

    of course, none of this addresses the evil profiling that is going on; these wereguys are being unfairly singled out due to their unkempt appearance and cultural and moral differences. so the most pc thing to do would be to wait until one of them does to you whatever it is they do, and since that puts them upcloseandpersonal, a nice sharp silver blade should be all that is required to dispatch him. by that time, of course, he will have wrought his havoc on your flesh and bones, but you can die happy knowing that you have protected others from his dirty deeds, and that you didn’t violate his civil rights or your own code of innocent until proven guilty sensibilities.

    jtc

  60. Mikee says:

    Larry Talbot (aka Lon Chaney) managed with a silver-handled cane.

  61. MarkHB says:

    I guess if you’re going the bio-active route, then a blade coated with silver dust is good. If you’re going the Magic Silver Effect Field route, a nice silver shortsword would be good.

    • Kaerius(SWE) says:

      I went with silver plated longsword as third armament, for situations where a gun might not be ideal…

      The greater reach would help, as you don’t want to get too close.

      Also, I specified a balance point only about an inch above the hilt… such a sword balance leads to a sword that feels light as air, a very quick weapon, though you sacrifice striking power. I figured giving you a chance to block a blow or strike fast and getting the sword into the werewolf would be more important than being able to lop off a limb if you connect.

  62. Bob says:

    As my tongue is firmly in my cheek, there is another consideration to hunting Werewolves, legality. Since in the future werewolves will probably be as common as they are now, Werewolves are “endangered species”. That or since the affected person is the victim of the lycanthropy disease, the “Werewolf, is still a human person, and the killing of such would be considered murder.
    Control of these people/animals would have to be handled by either Armed U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service Enforcement Agent or an armed enforcement types (FBI?) working with the CDC, or best of both worlds an Armed U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service Law Enforcement Agent working TDY with the CDC. Of course an FBI agent might be the thing for an urban confrontation.
    I like the Wildlife Service Enforcement Agent TDY’ed to CDC myself.
    I like the Wildlife Service Enforcement Agent TDY’ed to CDC myself. Especially if he/she has to work with people who don’t believe in Werewolves not believing him/her. They would just think of the perp (can you call a werewolf a perp?) as a crazed cannibal. For protocol would the Agent try to tranquillize the animal / diseased person first, or destroy the diseased person? Do you kill a werewolf or try to cure the person of the disease?

  63. Strings says:

    Ya know, I’ve been thinking about this. And I think I’ve arrived at the best answer.

    I’d hide behind Tam…😛

    • Jason says:

      I may be a little late in replying, but I figure why not?

      The modern legend says to use silver, but they do not prescribe the minimal amount, so a .22 hollow point filled with silver should do the trick, a higher caliber if you want to spend more on silver. Because, as pointed out silver does not have the same ballistic properties as lead, a silver filled hollow point should do the trick.

      But, unless the history channel is lying to me, and it very well could be, the usage of silver is a 20th century invention with the Lon Chaney Jr. movie “The Wolf Man”; which means any lead projectile, provided it can stop a human, should be workable on a werewolf. I guess the trick would be aiming while you fill your pants.

      But this is my best guess; take it for what it is.

  64. Evan Price says:

    As has been mentioned, are we talking about World of Darkness werewolves, Lon Chaney werewolves, American Werewolf in London werewolves…

    My experience has been of writing about werewolves that fit more towards World of Darkness.

    Typically figure that with non-silver ammunition, wound effectiveness is decreased by 90%; if you dump several full mags of std. ammo into a lycanthrope it will suffer, bleed and fall- however short of disintegration, beheading or destruction by fire the creature WILL eventually recover as nonsilver wounds are not permanent. Physically, the average lupine in the killing wolf-were form will be very similar to the grizzly bear- ropes of sinew, ribbons of hard muscle, heavy bone, thick fur, and well-protected nerve centers.

    Based upon that pattern the best weapons for the lycanthrope hunter would be medium or large caliber firearms that focus on heavy, hard-hitting, deep-penetrating calibers. Most lycanthrope hunting activities usually cannot be counted on to involve long range shot. The pack tactics used by werewolves (and the general stealth abilities that are quite shocking for a creature so massive and physically imposing) plainly indicate that many encounters with the Lupines will eventually involve point-blank shooting at tooth and claw distances. Long barrels are not your friend!

    Any pistol should be outfitted with a good set of snag-free night sights such as Meprolight. The TruGlo TFO sights also help during the day. Extra ammo in speedloaders or magazines is a must. 50 rounds ready to go would be the bare minimum!

    The Smith & Wesson 327 8-shot .357 revolver with 158-grain silver-plated SWC bullets would be excellent. 8 rounds of potent .357 on tap to ensure a hard, deep hole that delivers silver where it counts.

    Taurus Tracker 627 revolver in .357 Magnum- delivers 7 rounds of .357 Magnum, and the ported barrel helps with controlling recoil for follow-up shots.

    Most any .44 Magnum revolver with a 240-grain silver-plated SWC. 6 shots of heavy hitting silver to take down a charging lycanthrope. I would advise the shorter barreled models, 4″ and under. My preference are the “bear defence” style weapons such as the Ruger Alaskan/Super Redhawk style pistols, or the S&W 629 Mountain Gun.

    The S&W X frame “Bear defence” guns in .460 or .500, a Ruger Alaskan in .45 Colt (loaded to Ruger strength) or .454 Casull or .480 Ruger are also possibly good choices if the user is strong enough to handle the recoil and weight of the pistol. However there is a trade-off, you only get 5 rounds in the cylinder in some pistols. Load for the heaviest slug you can handle.

    For semi-autos, I would not even bother with anything less than a 10MM or full-power 45 acp +P. 200-grain silver-plated 10MM or 200/230-grain silver-plated .45 ACP+P would deliver a solid hit to vital target areas. Pistols such as the Sig 220, 1911, EAA Witness, ParaOrdinance, etc. are great choices. The Desert Eagle pistols are also possibly useful however the huge size and increased weight would be a drawback.

    For longer ranges I would personally look into the Remington 870 shotgun with a 20″ barrel and a mag extension. That gives you 8+1 of 12-gauge shells. Go with the 3″ shells at Magnum velocities. Load would be either 00 silver buckshot, or silver-plated 1-oz slugs. A good sling is a must as well as a set of high visibility sights such as TruGlo fiber-optic.

    Any 12-bore shotgun would be a good choice. I only chose the 870 because they are commonly available and easy to add magazine capacity. Otherwise I would choose the Mossberg 500- but the design of the barrel and mag tube precludes most easy add-on mag upgrades.

    If you can lure the lycanthropes into a trap, a sniper equipped with a .308 or larger caliber rifle would be an asset. As always, silver-plated or -jacketed ammo is necessary. Use the largest weight bullet that is a good shooter in the rifle.

    In any fight it will probably come down to tooth and claw. Humans are woefully underequipped in that department. A good silver-inlaid fighting knife of the style that you can use and be proficient with would be your last line of defense.

    Lycanthropes often have normal “day” lives as normal humans. If your operations as a lycanthrope hunter involve interaction in areas that are “civilian-normal” then useful CCW style weapons are a necessity.

    Again, despite appearance, a lycanthrope -even in human form- will not suffer fatal injuries from normal (non silver) weapons. They will bleed and take damage but will heal. For that reason, the use of silver-plated analogues of common SD ammo is recommended. Loading Winchester Silvertips with actual Silver Tips is a good idea- it stops people asking why you have such odd ammo if discovered.

    In human form, the need for deep penetration is limited; the idea is to do your fighting before they can transform into were-form. In that case typical self-defense ammo and calibers would be appropriate.

    One thing to not forget is that where you find lycanthropes, you often find vampires. The ability to deal with leeches is strongly recommended! A set of good stakes, some holy water, and a cross or other symbol or two don’t take much room or weight and could be the difference between life or death.

    Nearly any creature- supernatural or otehrwise- fears fire, rightfully so. Fire damages all creatures. While werewolves can heal thermal or chemical burns they are painful and debilitating. White Phosphorus grenades are quite useful however it must be stressed that these cannot be deployed near friendly forces or assets.

    Most were-creatures have enhanced night sight ability, similar to the canines they are derived from. Because of that they are also light sensitive- a flash-bang grenade will temporarily blind their night vision as effectively as it would a modern NVG set.

    The lupine sense of smell is as sensitive as the canine one and for that reason strong scents can confuse or stun. Normal pepper sprays or chemical Maces are not effective beyond a brief period against an enraged lupine. Even full-military-strength pepper or mace sprays only temporarily affect a werewolf. Tasers and other electrical behavior modifiers will have nearly no effect on a lycanthrope. Tranquilizers and other drugs will only have an effect when the extra mass of the creature is factored into the equation, and the dosage required per kilo of bodyweight is much higher than a human. When in human form these agents will affect a lycanthrope normally, however.

    The best weapon against lycanthropes is intelligence, teamwork, and never allowing yourself to fight on their terms.

  65. Kristopher says:

    Lift off and nuke the site from orbit.

    It’s the only way to be sure.

  66. Wes S. says:

    Given the problems with melting and casting silver into bullets, perhaps some sort of swaging technique might be used instead? I seem to recall an article from one of my father’s old gun magazines from the 1980s that described swaging dies being sold to the public for use with a hydraulic press, where bits of lead rod were put into copper tubing inside the swaging die, and with a pull of the handle the two were compressed together into a jacketed bullet. I think the dies were offered in both softpoint and hollowpoint versions, as well as FMJ, in several popular calibers. Couldn’t the same trick be used with silver instead of lead?

    In the unlikely event I needed anti-lycanthropy rounds on short notice, I think I’d try to get my hands on some of that BB-sized silver shot or craft beads, drill deeper cavities into the noses of a few twelve-gauge deer slugs and epoxy the shot in place. Maybe modify some buckshot rounds with some of those craft beads mixed in with the pellets as well.

    For a handgun, I guess I’d go with my Ruger .44 Special Blackhawk with Blaser 200-grain Gold Dot HPs, similarly modified. (The Gold Dots have a pretty big cavity to start with; I could probably get several of the BBs or a craft bead in there without modification…)

  67. Mark says:

    I prefer a MK4 #1 SMLE Ishapore .308, failing that I prefer my HK91. I know some people think H&K is for Fanboys, but it works for me. Then add in either my High Standard k1201 Riot Gun, or my Mav 88 loaded with buck and ball. And my .357 Mag revolver. I’m a traditionalist I guess…. Since it would be kind of hard to use my .50 cal frontier rifle or a .75 cal Brown Bess :o)

  68. RickR says:

    A Phased Plasma Rifle in the 40 Watt range.

  69. a warning to those who have mentioned using sterling silver in one form or another to fashion their bullets or bullet inserts:

    scientific testing has shown that purity of the silver is key in attaining the fastest maximum effect on the werecreature. sterling silver is alloyed with nickel and copper, reducing its fineness to .925 and its effectiveness as werepoison. so use only certified .999 bullion coins or bars from a recognized refiner; engelhard is one of the best and most easily available…but to really max out the purity, go with the johnson-matthey bars from canada which carry the four nines (.9999 fine).

    in all shooting, your ammo is key; even more so when your prey is intent on preying on you…don’t be fooled by that perfect hair, those evil bastards will eat you for breakfast and then brag about it…ah00000000000!

    jtc

    p.s. not that far from the magic triple-digit comment count; ya’ll kick in and make it happen!

  70. ravenshrike says:

    Because I’m a believer in redundancy, and also the fact that if I were to meet a werewolf it would be in a dark area, I would use a twelve gauge with alternating silver shot and dragons breath rounds. This way, if I were to wound and not kill the werewolf, it would be easy to track, not to mention the smell of burned hair and flesh would make it hard for it to sneak up on anyone else.

  71. HTRN says:

    This is possibly the best way I’ve seen to cast silver bullets – Steel warps too easy with molten silver, and Silver is too hard for a regular sprue plate.

    A problem that might hinder the use of Silver in SLRs: Material shaving. I know it’s generally a bad idea to shoot lead bullets in things like Deagles and ARs, because it winds up clogging the gas systems. Some experimentation might be in order.

    A better idea may be to “tag” the ‘were with something(radio tag, radiation, etc), and then hunt it down while it’s in human form. I think it would be far safer.

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